Multi-Pitch Award

Multi Pitch Award

Multi Pitch training and assessment cover the skills required to lead climbers on a ‘limited remit’ of multi pitch climbs.
Multi Pitch training covers personal climbing, stance management, rope systems, client rescue and evacuation, etiquette, environmental responsibilities and more.
Candidates will learn how to become an effective multi pitch leader, fostering the spirit of climbing whilst also improving their own climbing skills.
Multi Pitch training courses are available in various locations on the island of Ireland. Please see our 'Training Course' section for more details.

Useful Resources

HANDBOOK                                                                                 PROVIDERS                                                                               Rock Climbing - The book

Getting Started

Before registration, candidates must be able to answer yes to the following questions:

• Are you at least 18 years old?

• Are you a member of a Mountaineering Council: Mountaineering Ireland, Mountaineering Scotland or the British mountaineering Council? €30 for training candidates.

• Have you a minimum of 1 year’s rock climbing experience post Rock Climbing Instructor/Single Pitch Award?

 • Are you an active climber • Have you led at least 15 multi pitch routes at a minimum severe grade and with logged evidence of climbing harder routes where the protection is leader placed?

 • Have you been involved as an instructor on a minimum of 10 climbing sessions post Rock Climbing Instructor/Single Pitch Award


Registration and Logbook 


 If you can meet all of the above requirements, here's what to do next:

  • Register for the Multi Pitch Award (this costs €69)

A Digital Log will be provided. This log is a vital link between the candidate, Mountaineering Ireland, and the training provider and provides a clear record of candidates’ climbing experience and activity, their fulfilment of the requirements of the scheme, and course attendance. The log must be kept up-to-date and be submitted or shared when booking places on courses. The training/assessment course director will monitor the logbooks on behalf of Mountaineering Ireland. 

Once you have registered and received your log book, you can book a training course directly with one our approved providers.

Training

  • MPA training courses are held over a minimum of 2 days (20 hours) and include evening sessions.
  • Courses can comprise of a mixture of indoor lectures/discussions and outdoor practical sessions. 
  • Be a current member of a Mountaineering Council: Mountaineering Ireland, Mountaineering Scotland or the British Mountaineering Council. €30 for training candidates.

Topics covered on the MPA training syllabus will include:

  • Equipment,
  • Creating multi-pitch belays, 
  • Effective stance management, 
  • Emergency procedures,
  • The multi-pitch environment among others. 
  • The ratio for MPA training is a maximum of one instructor to 2 candidates. 

The MPA syllabus and is available to download here.

Consolidation

Between training and assessment you must consolidate new ideas and techniques and gain additional climbing experience.

Your trainer will advise you about the amount and nature of the personal climbing and instructing/leading experience you should gain.

During this period of consolidation, candidates are advised to climb at as wide a range of venues as possible, both as an individual and when assisting the others.

Mountaineering Ireland recommends that all, but the most experienced candidates allow a minimum of six months between training and assessment.

There is currently no time limit on the validity of a training course and some candidates may take several years to complete the award.

Assessment

Candidates should not present themselves for Assessment until they have:

  •  Registered
  • Be a current member of a Mountaineering Council: Mountaineering Ireland, Mountaineering Scotland or the British Mountaineering Council. €30 for training candidates.

 • Have attended a training course or been granted exemption from training

 • Have gained further experience (see Experience Pre-Requirements in syllabus)

 • Be competently leading Hard Severe grade climbs on outdoor crags with leader-placed protection  

 • Hold a valid First Aid Certificate 

 • Logged an absolute minimum of 10 more multi pitch climbs after training that are

 - outdoors, on leader placement protection. 

• At least half must be of Hard Severe grade and
 -with evidence of harder

 -the routes should be climbed at a minimum of 3 different venues. 

• Assisted with the supervision of 10 climbing sessions post training, 
 -with some of them alongside an experienced MPA, MCI or IFMGA guide
 -at a minimum of two different locations.

  •  assessment takes places over 2 days, and also includes an evening session. 

Candidates will be tested in practical aspects of the syllabus by MTBI-approved assessors. The ratio is 1 instructor to 2 candidates for MPA assessment.

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