IMPROVING HOLDS
Do not improve holds by chipping, filing etc.
GLUING HOLDS
Critical holds may be glued in place.
PITONS
Historically the placement of pitons has been accepted. However, as climbing equipment has evolved, they are now viewed as a last resort.
BOLTS
- The placement of bolts at sport climbing venues should follow current best practice.
- For detailed information on the placement of bolts please read the BMC’s Bolt Guidance Document Part 2: An Installers Guide.
- Bolts are not to be placed at trad climbing venues.
- Record details of bolting and put in place a schedule of inspection.
LANDINGS
- Using multiple bouldering mats will give safe landings in most cases.
- Any work on landings should be kept to a minimum.
- Only use materials, such as branches already on the ground, from the immediate vicinity that blend in with the natural environment.
DESCENTS
- If an abseil descent is required, trees and boulders can be used as anchors.
- A doubled-up length of static rope and a mallion provides a suitable solution for abseiling whilst minimising damage to the tree.
CLOSED PROJECTS
- Having invested time, effort and sometimes money into developing a climbing area, it is generally accepted that you will be given priority on claiming first ascents if you request it.
- If you do not climb all the routes or boulder problems immediately, you have the right to deem them as a ‘closed project’ for a limited period.
- By using any of the various communication methods available and leaving a tag at the base of the climb, other climbers will know that the line is a ‘closed project’.
RECORDING
- When recording new routes and boulder problems, provide details of the location and brief details to allow identification, providing photographs where possible.
- Keep descriptions concise, but with enough information to find, climb, and descend.
- When assigning a grade, it may be worth considering the style in which it was first climbed and the style in which subsequent climbers may attempt it.
- New routes can be submitted to local guidebook authors or to Irish Climbing Route Database on climbing.ie.
- New boulder problems can be submitted to local guidebook authors or to The Short Span website: theshortspan.com.