News 2013

Jono Redmond on Salango
Title: Fair Head meet 2013
Type: 
Date: 11-05-2013
System Date: 11-05-2013

Over the weekend of 31st May – 2nd June 2013 Mountaineering Ireland organised the 4th annual Fair Head Climbing Meet.  The meet seems to prove more and more popular every year with nearly 200 climbing showing up at the crag over the weekend.

For people who have never climbed there or know little about the place, it is AMAZING!  Fair Head is a massive expanse of dolerite, situated next to the sea and rising up to 100m in places.  The cliff stretches for over 3 miles, sporting over 400 routes. Many of the routes follow crack-lines meaning gear is most often 'on demand'.  The physical nature the climbing makes for great battles and can often leave you feeling rather beaten up!

The meet runs fairly informally with camping available in Sean the Farmers field, a BBQ for all to use a few port-a-loos and an evening lecture on the Saturday night.  It has to be noted that the hospitality of Sean and the whole McBride family is second to none and without their support the small hiccups wouldn’t be sorted so quickly! We are also walking, tramping and climbing all over his land!  It is great to see all the climbers taking responsibility for them selves, respecting Sean’s farmland and being friendly and courteous!

Entertainment this year was from English climber Nick Bullock.  Well known for his exploits in the greater ranges, hard Scottish mixed and choss climbing, Nick put a fantastic presentation together about a few routes in North Wales.  His audience consisted of nearly 200 climbers, in a cow shed and he made great use of props as well as profanities!  I think it was the first time he had been heckled by farm animals.

To round up the climbing well as usual all of the classics were climbing around the Rathlin wall area.  As there was a cool NW breeze folk opted for later starts and trying to seek out as much sun as possible.  On Saturday evening Fair Head local Andy Marshall made the 4th Ascent of Complete Scream E8.  The was the first time it has been climbed since a hold broke and revealed a good wire placement, but the hard climbing is still protected with a skyhook!

The whole weekend went very well, with lots of people getting a great introduction to what the crag has to offer.

A big thanks to everyone to helped with the weekend and a special mention to both Sean Mc Bride and Nick Bullock.  

Hope to see everyone there next year!


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